Dogs that had been trained to detect cocaine and explosives were given a glamorous new career; last year they sniffed out more than 200 pounds of black truffles. This year the harvest has quadrupled, exports have started, and restaurants in the United States, including the French Laundry in Yountville, Calif., and Lever House in New York, are using the truffles.
Because Australia is in the Southern Hemisphere and the seasons are reversed, black truffles in July are something of a surprise.
“You have to rethink your summer menu to use black truffles because you usually associate them with winter,” said Dan Silverman, below, the chef at Lever House. Since worldwide production of fine black truffles has dropped sharply in the last 10 years, Australia’s news is welcome for devotees of Tuber melanosporum.
The truffles, which are intensely aromatic, inky black and sometimes the size of tennis balls, are in season from June to September. Truffle hunts are open to the public ($55 Australian, with wine, from wineandtruffle.com.au. Balducci’s sells the truffles by special order for $1,495 a pound; the smallest order is a quarter pound, at $373.75. Orders may be placed at any Balducci’s store.
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From Down Under, Black Gold
New York Times July 11, 2007